Heading South for a Scorcher

We are just back from our three-week odyssey through various parts of Spain and France and trying to resume something close to normal life, whatever that means. Normal does seem to be a term that left the building some time ago.

After 20-plus days of exploring, my head is pretty much exploding with fortified cities, ruins, rich restaurants and the ongoing clash of three languages. I love history and this trip had enough of it to bring my tank to overflowing at the overwhelming parade of the past that is still very much evident in the present. Spain really is a remarkable land. I’ll soon fill in more details on the many interesting sights we saw, but today my muddled brain is going to take the easy way out and just hit on a couple of oddball/ironic moments from our travels.

The driving part of our adventure, which covered nearly 3,000 kilometers, came to an end at the airport in Sevilla, which has the honor of being the chart-topper of our scorching swing through southern Spain. How does 46 DSC_0613degrees Celsius grab you? We expected it to be hot, but heading south just in time for a heatwave was an added bonus. Not that I’ve tried it, but the experience seemed to have a lot in common with sticking your face in a blast furnace and breathing deeply. In other words, roll me over and baste me.

As we neared the airport in Sevilla for our flight on to Paris, I rounded a corner on the highway and nearly drove off the road in surprise, uttering the now famous line: “Holy crap, it’s Costco.” It had totally slipped our minds that the famous big box entered the Spanish market a couple of years back, but here were the familiar big red letters beaming back at us across a giant yellow wall.

We swung off the highway for a look. As much as we love Spain, a little glimpse of the familiar is always a welcome sight. After a little negotiating with the staff to clarify that we really are members back in the US, we wandered inside. It was like stepping through a portal – it could have been Cincinnati instead of Seville. It literally looked identical to pretty much every other Costco anywhere.

As we trolled the aisles, I was amazed to see the same giant bundles of products that Costco is so famous for, and mainly US brands. There were French’s mustard bottles big enough to drown every hot dog you could eat in a year. The hefty packages of Snickers bars would single-handily add two inches to the average Spanish waistline. And table after table of Costco’s own knock-off “designer” clothes were silently chanting, “pick me, pick me.” Somewhere behind me, I could hear a chorus humming and see a shining light surrounding the building. Never underestimate what makes you connect with home.

Since we were heading to the airport, we had to resist the stock-up temptation that usually comes with a Costco trip, but it was still a well-spent half hour stepping back across the pond for a taste of America. Unfortunately, the place was empty enough that you could bowl down most aisles without knocking over a single Spaniard, so I have a feeling Costco is having a rough time getting the locals to adopt its brand of shopping. I’d love to see them open in Barcelona, but it doesn’t feel very likely. The giant mustard will have to wait for another day.

Another interesting part of our southern adventure was using a GPS. Apple Maps truly hates this part of the world. Getting around in Spain is rarely easy thanks to the reality that addresses here are rather imprecise, or simply nonexistent in some cases. But our experience in a couple cities this time was a whole new level of confusion. We sat in a café one night in Granada, looking across the street to the restaurant we were awaiting to open, only to have the GPS give us clear directions to take a mile and a half trip in the other direction to eventually get across the street. There should be an IGNORE button on that thing.

For a northern boy, it never ceases to amaze me that lemon and orange trees commonly line the streets in these southern towns. In some places, half the trees along the road will be orange trees. The ironic part is that in places like Seville, they usually are a bitter version of the fruit that is pretty much inedible, but I’m told is perfect for marmalade. The Brits get quite excited about that. Meanwhile, I saw a local cat marking a fallen orange, if you get what I mean. All a matter of taste, I suppose.

Many, many moons ago, while in Paris, I got the brilliant idea that I should go visit Jim Morrison’s DSC_0458grave. It’s one of those pilgrimages on the rock fan checklist. I remember deciphering the metro map, changing trains and rushing to the right cemetery – exactly 10 minutes after it closed for the day. That made it a personal challenge to get back there during open hours during this return to Paris. After all the tales of oddball items left behind and parties and vandalism at the grave, I walked up to it to find – a grave. It’s not like I was expecting dancing bears and a 12-piece band, but it really is just a simple grave and the same slightly creepy, rather empty, might-have-been feeling you get when standing in front of most graves.
Even though we live in Spain, we are obviously not fully connected to society and events. It ends up being commonplace, albeit unsettling, for major events to suddenly pop up without us having a clue they are occurring. In the US, it’s tough to imagine being surprised by the 4th of July, but being in a foreign land means things like this sneak up on you. Case in point, the day we left Madrid, horses and carriages were pouring out of trailers in front of the royal palace for what was clearly an important event. There were enough four-legged critters to rival the Kentucky Derby. As a news junkie, it’s an odd feeling to be so removed that big stuff happens around me and I barely have a clue. I guess I need to spend more time slowly (emphasis on the sloooowly) sounding my way through the local paper to figure out what’s up. How ironic it is that I now have more to read, but I’m even less in tune with what’s going on!

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Time to Throw the Cap and Hit the Road for France

It is a cliché, but it’s also true that the years when your kids are young go rushing past in the blink of an eye. I could swear we were just celebrating Liam’s first words and first steps and suddenly there he is under a paper cap celebrating his kindergarten “graduation.”

If you looked up chaos in the dictionary, I’m guessing there’s a picture of the graduation of 18 kindergarteners – all crammed in a small, square room with about 25 oohing parents. At any given moment, a half dozen are looking at the ceiling, a few are checking out their feet, one is on the edge of tears with that wild-eyed look of terror that only a parent understands, one has a finger up their nose, one has a look that may indicate a potty issue, one has just discovered they have pants and, miraculously, one is paying attention to the program. Of course, that last one is because his/her name was just called. In other words, it’s better entertainment value than any epic that Hollywood has released in yearsDSC_0408

The hour-long graduation, bursting at the seams with as much parental pride as childhood enthusiasm, gave every one of our youngsters a chance to celebrate their accomplishments. Each beamed with pride as their name appeared on screen and they received a graduation certificate, but their joy was even greater as they showed off the planets they had cut out and painted by hand and sang about the solar system. These six-year-olds could already put mom and dad to shame with their knowledge of the planets above.

It’s astounding how much they have accomplished in the last few months. In the span of a few months, their workbooks advance from a few halting, awkward letters to nicely written sentences. Stories go from a few stick figures to grand tales. And confidence levels have climbed from nervous statements to the ability to pretty much do anything. Just ask any of them and the answer will be, “I know how to do that.” The boundless confidence of youth has been borne!

So, enough though it feels like we barely just arrived, suddenly kindergarten is passed and our first full summer in Barcelona has begun. And what does summer mean? Why, road trip, of course!

We are part way through our first official summer road trip in Spain, starting with a quick loop through a little bit of southern France, a stop in the tiny burg of Andorra and then back to Barcelona for a quick rest before heading south. Let me throw in a few observations of our travel so far.

  • The center of the ancient French town of Carcasonne is a hilltop that has been occupied for nearly 6,000 years. Now, it is one of the last fortified cities in the world with the town totally surrounded by the centuries-old walls. The narrow streets of the old town are still lined with restaurants and shops as it has been for nearly a millennium, making for a really great backdrop to pick a spot and dine. This was one of the most interesting spots we have visited
  • Pretty much every place we have traveled to Spain or France is marked by Roman ruins, such as leftover bits of walls, an aqueduct or some other such remain. Along with the fact that it’s hard to believe the Roman empire reached so far, I can’t fathom how much building these guys did. I swear the life of a Roman soldier must have been march a long way, stop, build something and then march a whole lot further. These were one industrial people
  • DSC_0007Our little amble through southern France to Carcasonne and Toulouse before reaching Andorra was most noteworthy for beautiful, rolling countryside occasionally marked by little hamlets. France is a really stirring country
  • France has a lot of nice and helpful people. That said, it’s also not that tough to find someone who lives up to the French stereotype. They have built an enviable society, but not always as the most accepting
  • All I’d heard about Andorra was concentrated on skiing and sales tax free shopping. After a day there, that pretty much seems accurate. I’ll add that the Pyrenees driving into Andorra are breathtaking – but I wouldn’t want to do that drive in snowy conditions.
  • The driving part of road trips often is not that interesting, but it can be  improved greatly when a six-year-old gets on a good roll. Maybe the most interesting moment over the last few days was Liam telling us he and his wife will have 10 kids, but he intended to leave home to go off and work for the first eight years after getting married. Can’t wait to see the look on his face the day we explain that those two equations don’t quite add up
  • Liam also has a remarkable knack of knowing how to dress for the occasion. For example, he determined a t-shirt and a tie are the perfect ensemble for the Egypt museum. And he insisted on donning a jaunty fedora the exact day that we ran into a display of old cars. My little mobster.

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How Hard Could it be to Pass a Driving Test in Spain?

Although the old cliché says you never forget how to ride a bike, I’m assuming the same can be said about driving a car. But I’m not so sure that adage goes far enough to cover actually passing a driving test.

For my next big adventure here in Spain – or maybe just because I am actually as dumb as some have suggested  – I have begun the process of studying for the test to obtain a Spanish driving licence. The good news is that the theoretical part of the test can be taken in English. The bad news is, it’s basically the Spanish test run through a lousy translator and presented as being English. It’s still week one and this already is looking rather interesting.

I don’t know about you, but I can’t remember a single moment of my original written test to get a licence. We’re talking a long time ago – like when phones still came with cords and the only web we had at home was a sticky thing in the corner that inspired my mother to say words I wasn’t supposed to hear.

I do remember the actual driving part of the test, mainly because my dad was taking me to the testing facility and he showed up with a brand new car that I hadn’t even seen before, let alone practiced on. I should also mention it was the most expensive car for sale on his lot. Nothing like adding a little pressure to an already nervous 16-year-old. Dad’s famous words, “what’s the difference. A car’s a car” were not exactly an antidote to my hyperventilating.

So now, these many years later, I’m faced with that whole process again, this time in a foreign land. According to local standards, I’m nothing but a rookie and have to go through it all from A to Z, even a medical. So I’m embarking on the process to learn the ropes all over again, even if I look nothing like I did at 16. More gut, less hair and no weekly allowance!

The actual driving part doesn’t worry me too much. The real challenge is being able to nail the written questions. Honestly, if someone from the DMV quizzed you now, could you come up with enough correct answers to get through a written test? How many feet do you need to leave between cars? What’s the correct speed limit on a secondary road when no sign is posted? It’s horseshoes and hand grenades – getting close to the right answer doesn’t cut it on this test. So even if I function perfectly well in the real world of driving, that doesn’t much matter in the world of tests. And these worlds are crashing together.

I settled in to my first class, surrounded by a melting pot of nationalities who all looked as much as a deersign in the headlights as I. The next two hours would be confusing, odd, sometimes comical and capped by the realization that I needed a bunch more of these classes before taking my first shot at passing the test. Much of it is memory work, but the wrinkle of colorful translations certainly stops it from being mundane. Not that we should feel alone. Badly translating signs are everywhere, but getting a giggle from an awkward sign when walking down the street isn’t the equal of trying to untangle bad syntax on a test.

For example, a serious of warnings about “the impaired people” caught my attention as we started to go through the first chapter of the manual. The book was stressing that impaired people almost always have the right of way, which seemed rather off until I realized impaired was an interesting translation for handicapped people. Then again, this course may leave me impaired one way or the other.

Then there was a whole series of very precise regulations on how and when to put out a traffic triangle if you break down on the road. Plus, 25  different scenarios related to parking properly. And guidelines on the necessity to have a yellow traffic vest within reach at all times in the car. I’m not sure if I should invest in the yellow vest or just wait for the guys in the white coats.

As we dug deeper into the book, I counted seven different types of stop signs covering odd days, even days, stopping without parking, early month stopping, late month stopping and, I think, an alien landing. (They have the right of way, incidentally) And this was only chapter one! I could only imagine the road ahead.

As class ended and with my head still spinning, the instructor decided to offer up one last nugget of interesting info. Even though the Spanish version of the DMV is nice enough to let you take the written test in any of more than a dozen different languages, they still revert back to Spanish when it comes to the road test. It looks like all gloves are off at this point with everything fair game. They might even ask you to explain how to change the oil. I actually have done that a few times despite being light years from the mechanically-inclined one in the family, but I certainly never explained it in Spanish. Unfortunately, I’m also not the priestly one in the family, which may be an issue about this time, since I think I may need divine intervention.

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Kitchen Sink? Check.

Crowbarring the final items into Liam’s backpack this past Tuesday, I could have sworn that he was off on a round-the-world trip. But no, this was his just first overnight camping adventure from school.

The list of items to pack stretched onto a second page, despite the fact that it was just a single night away. I think most of our ancestors moved to America with fewer items to their names than these six-year-olds hauled off for the short drive to overnight cabins. Nearly half the parents resorted to rolling bags, as opposed to backpacks, to fit it all in. Is there a fee for having to check a bag!

The whole thing did feel like overkill, but, then again, there does seem to be a direct correlation between the amount of stuff packed and the lessened anxiety level of the parents. Tension relief by the pound.

Even though it was only a night, it’s remarkable how different home feels when the regular thump-thump of little feet is removed. It’s quieter on many levels, but definitely emptier, too. And while we sit around and ponder what he’s up to about every 47 seconds, Liam breezes through the affair with barely a thought of home, with the possible exception of missing his stuffed dog. Such is the mind of a six-year-old.

As day one wore on, photos started to trickle in on the school’s blog as his adventures began to unfold. There were popsicles and pirate faces. Rope bridges and bug discoveries. Purple tongues and green mustaches. There were so many firsts that he’s already forgotten some. Just as we remembered a few of our own firsts from a long time ago, sharing some of these same discoveries.

I have to stop and remind myself sometimes that virtually everything he experiences is a first. Not a day goes by that he doesn’t proudly start a sentence with “Daddy, did you know…” The revelations are almost always directly from left field and usually made up of weighty facts such as whales are mainly gray in color or Venus is the hottest planet. The messages are simple, but still laden with the pride he feels at another fact learned.

Our own first this week was seeing his swimming lesson. Until now, Liam’s aquatic adventures were off-limits to parents. It was a thrill to see how far he has come over the last few months. With him not being one of the more physical kids, we didn’t think a budding Michael Phelps was in the offing, but just seeing him dog paddle for dear life was close enough to earning a gold medal for us. Not fearing the water is a huge leap forward. See a little of it in the clip here

So even though I’m thinking I might have to borrow a wheelbarrow to pack if next year’s school trip includes a second night, it’s all worth it in the end. Each extra item of stuff adds up to a little more weight of knowledge. After all, packing his little brain with as much information as possible is the first entry in my job description as parent.

RANDOM THOUGHTS: Burgers simply taste different here; more gamey for lack of a better term. I haven’t quite figured out if they add something to make it this way, or it’s just the reality that they don’t add the things that make some beef closer to cardboard than cow. Regardless, it takes some getting used to… the growing season here is definitely a lot longer. It’s barely June and already the shelves are starting to fill with fresh peaches and melons. I could get used to this, even if nowhere in the world can match the taste of a Niagara peach…

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And a Dash of Macabre for Good Measure

I have to admit that there are few prouder moments for me as a parent than when I teach Liam something new. Learning brings a gleam to a child’s eye that’s like a ray of sunshine for a parent.

Of late, we’re been exploring some of the sights built by Barcelona’s favorite son, architect Antoni Gaudi. Our most recent was to a building known as La Pedrera, or Casa Mila for the family that commissioned its construction. And as we walked out of the building the other night and Liam turned to me and asked if he could learn more about Gaudi and see a picture of him, I swelled a little with pride that my son was curious and wanted to delve deeper into the history and the man.

Then he said, “I want to see a picture of him getting hit by the tram.” Well, so much for fatherly pride.

After all, it’s still a six-year-old we’re talking about here, so even the healthy pursuit of expanding the mind comes with an ample dose of the macabre, or mentions of caca, or fits of giggles that should be recorded for future blackmail. (Seriously, where do boys get giggles that silly?)

I’m still hanging on to the warm feeling I get when teaching Liam something. It speaks to the belief that the most fulfilled people are those that are helping others. Everyday is a new opportunity to expand his knowledge just a tiny bit, and it’s a process I truly do enjoy. Even if I do have to mix in the occasional gory bit to maintain his interest.

I’m thinking his teachers have learned this trick too, considering the inclusion of the tram story in their lesson plans on Gaudi. The class completed a whole unit on Gaudi, learning about his famous projects such as Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell, drawing huge posters of the projects as a team and proudly displaying them outside the class. It led to Liam having a real obsession with Sagrada Familia since he was part of the team that drew a poster of it.

Sagrada Familia is a truly unmatched church with so many building styles combined into one that it looks like something out of Hollywood. We had seen it from the outside, but we took Liam inside around his birthday. It really is breath-taking on the interior as well, but still tough to fathom that it’s been under construction for over 100 years and isn’t slated to be finished for another decade. It should be on your list to see if you ever make it to Barcelona.

We visited La Pedrera at night as part of an interesting light projection they do among the cone-shaped structures on the roof. It was quite entertaining, along with being a great vantage point to see the lights of the city. The building was originally constructed about 100 years ago for a wealthy family as a home, along with about a dozen rental apartments. According to local scuttlebutt, there are still four families in the building on rental leases from decades ago with rents at some incredibly low level like 100 Euros a month. It makes rent control on New York sound reasonable! Beyond them, the rest of the building is a museum.

And, unfortunately, Liam has the story correct. Although already famous and revered in Barcelona, the 73-year-old Gaudi choose to dress like a tramp and was hit by a tram in 1926. He wasn’t transported immediately to hospital because the nearby cabbies feared he had no money for the fare, and he ended up dying from the injuries just three days later. A sad end for a man who has left such a mark on Barcelona, but an odd tail that just might be enough to keep six-year-olds asking for more. Always a silver lining, you might say.

RANDOM THOUGHTS: We have been pondering moving apartments. I’d love a deal like those at La Pedrera, but it seems like rents are heading upwards from when we looked a year ago. Some landlords clearly target the ex-pat crowd with rents that locals would never pay. On top of that, the odd system here where the renter ends up compensating the agency (instead of the owner paying) makes moving cost-prohibitive. It all feels rather backward… I’ve been pondering trying to get a Spanish driving license. The good news is, I can take the written test in English. The bad news is, some say the translation is bad enough that you might as well take it in Mongolian. I have a feeling there will be some stories to tell in the coming months…

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